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The muscle Mary Origins: Demna Gvasalia Vetements, Balenciaga and Alessandro Michele Gucci became the most influential designers of their era by taking — respectively — utilitarian street style and ornate embellishment down strange, pleasingly radical avenues, upsetting the strict tenets of buttoned-up, sartorial menswear. He has noticed something similar to Green. Yet just as the gay scruff-as-cultural-archetype boomed, a raft of new figures emerged, reframing sexuality and style, both in and out of high fashion. Howard thinks the real influence of gay men on mainstream style may not even be on their own kind.

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Meanwhile, American designer Rick Owens has looked to the brilliantly extreme edges of performance art, taking inspiration from the purposefully surreal, absurdist and unsettling physical disposition of David Hoyle and Christeene Vale.

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As Green was writing his thesis, the young designer Charles Jeffrey was being beaten up in Glasgow for his appearance. The Cockette Origins: Another who trod that path was Green, whose richly specific fashion vernacular feels technically in the lineage of Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

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The dilly boy Origins: